Having finished exploring Yakushi-ji, I head to Tōshōdai-ji Temple, located just to the north. It probably took about a 10-minute walk, and I’ve now arrived at the entrance of Tōshōdai-ji. Since they are so close to each other, it’s safe to say that, as a tourist, it’s definitely worth visiting both temples.
In previous blog posts, I mentioned that the best temple I visited during my Nara trip was Hōryū-ji, but in my opinion, Tōshōdai-ji would be in second place.
Now, let me introduce Tōshōdai-ji Temple. I hope you can appreciate its historical value and the beauty of its grounds, which blend so harmoniously with nature.
What is Tōshōdai-ji?
Tōshōdai-ji Temple is famous for having been founded by Jianzhen . Therefore, I will explain it while reflecting on his life.
Jianzhen was born in 688 in Yangzhou, China, and became a monk at the age of 14 at Da’un Temple in Yangzhou. He then grew to become a well-known monk throughout China.
In 742, responding to a fervent invitation from Japan, he decided to travel to the country. At that time, sea voyages were extremely difficult, and the journey was truly life-threatening. For an ordinary person, the hardships of the voyage would have led them to regret ever attempting it…
Jianzhen attempted the voyage to Japan five times but failed each time, and in the process, he lost his sight. However, his determination remained unshaken, and in December of 753, on his sixth attempt, he finally arrived in Japan.
The following year, Jianzhen established ordination platform in front of the Great Buddha Hall at Tōdai-ji, where he administered the first official ordination in Japan, granting the precepts to around 400 monks and laypeople, including Emperor Shōmu. This was Japan’s first formal ordination ceremony.
After spending five years at Tōdai-ji, Jianzhen received the title of Daiwajō in 758. In addition, in the third year of the Tenpyō Hōji era (759), he founded a dedicated training hall for the precepts. This is the origin of what is now the Ritsu Sect’s head temple, Tōshōdai-ji.
Furthermore, Toshodai-ji was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.
Exploring the Grounds
Upon arriving at Tōshōdai-ji, the first thing you will pass through is the South Gate (Nan-daemon). This gate was reconstructed in the Tenpyō style in 1960 (Showa 35). It is a gabled structure with three doors in the center, measuring five bays wide.
The Main Hall (Kondō) (National Treasure, Nara period)
Passing through the South Gate, the Main Hall stands before you, exuding an overwhelming presence. It is a Tenpyō-style building that combines rich volume with simple beauty. The eight entasis columns lined up at the front evoke the architectural techniques of ancient Greek temples, which traveled across the Silk Road and eventually reached Japan.
The interior is also incredible! In the center, the enormous Triad of Buddha (National Treasure) stands, with Vairocana Buddha flanked by two other statues. The dim lighting creates a mystical atmosphere, enhancing the sacred ambiance.
On either side of the main deity are the life-sized statues of Brahma and Indra (National Treasures), while the Four Heavenly Kings (National Treasures) stand at each corner, guarding the sacred space. The world these nine figures create is so captivating that it’s not an exaggeration to say that no one can look away from it.
Kaizandō
In the Founder’s Hall (Kaizandō), there is a faithful replica of the Seated Statue of Jianzhen (National Treasure), which is considered a masterpiece of portrait sculpture. The original statue is enshrined in the Mieidō and can only be viewed from June 5th to 7th. I hope to see the original one day.
The Jianzhen Mausoleum
The Jianzhen Mausoleum is located in a quiet, serene spot in the northeastern corner of the temple grounds. It is truly a place full of nature, with a peaceful and calming atmosphere. Among the great monks of his time, Jianzhen is the only one whose visitors have never ceased for over 1,250 years. This speaks volumes about his remarkable character and the significant impact he had on Japan.
Kyōzō and Hōzō (National Treasures, Nara period)
The Kyōzō (Sutra Repository) and Hōzō (Treasury), built in the Azekura-zukuri (storehouse) style, stand side by side to the east of the Main Hall. The larger one, Hōzō, is located to the north, while the smaller Kyōzō to the south is said to have been converted from a rice storehouse of Prince Nitabe’s residence, which existed before the founding of Tōshōdai-ji. This makes the Kyōzō the oldest Azekura-zukuri structure in Japan.
By the way, Azekura-zukuri is one of the ancient architectural styles, where wooden beams with trapezoidal or triangular cross-sections are stacked in a crisscross pattern to form walls, without the use of pillars. It has a stylish appearance, but as a layperson, I can’t help but think that building it must have been quite challenging.
Poetry Stones and Inscribed Monuments
There is a stone monument with a haiku by Matsuo Bashō located just before the Founder’s Hall. It is said that Bashō composed this haiku in 1688, when he visited and paid respects to the seated statue of Jianzhen .
“In the young leaves, / I wish to wipe away / the droplets from your eyes“
Additionally, there is a poetry stone dedicated to Hakuchū Kitahara. As seen here, great historical figures who we have learned about in our studies visited Tōshōdai-ji, drawing inspiration from this place.
I must admit that I am not very familiar with their works, so I would like to take the time to read them more thoroughly next time.
The Beauty of the Temple Grounds
The grounds of Tōshōdai-ji are beautifully integrated with nature. Personally, I really enjoy temples like this. I took a few photos, and I’d like to share them with you here.
Conclusion
While learning about the history of Tōshōdai-ji and Jianzhen, I was moved by the beautiful grounds and immersed in the world created by the statues. It was truly a fulfilling historical walk. As I mentioned at the beginning, Tōshōdai-ji, second only to Hōryū-ji, is a temple that I am glad I visited. I highly recommend that everyone visit it as well.
Now, my journey for today is not over yet. I’m heading north to my next destination, Kikō-ji. On the final day of my Nara sightseeing, I’m still excited to see what encounters await me.
コメント