After finishing my walk around Tōshōdai-ji Temple, I continued heading further north.
The final destination is Saidaiji, but along the way, there is also Kikōji Temple. Since I had some time and thought it would be a great opportunity, I decided to stop by. Notably, this temple is rare in Nara because it allows visitors to take photos, including of the Buddha statues, so I was able to capture some valuable memories.
Before reaching Kikōji Temple, you’ll also find the burial mound of Emperor Suinin (Sui-nin Tennō Ryō). It’s quite surprising to come across it suddenly amidst the peaceful rural landscape! It’s a massive keyhole-shaped tomb, and from above, it just looks like a small island.
I would have liked to take my time and admire it, but just as I was enjoying the view, I suddenly started feeling a stomachache and urgently needed to find a restroom. So, I quickly took a photo and left the spot.
What is Kikō-ji?
In the 5th year of Yōrō (721), Gyōki received a land donation from a man named Terashi Otsumaru, who lived in this area. The following year, he built a temple here, which became Kikōji. Initially, the temple was named “Sugawara-dera,” after the name of the land.
Gyōki was recognized by Emperor Shōmu and devoted himself to religious activities and social projects. As his final major task in life, he began the construction of the Great Buddha at Tōdai-ji. During this time, Emperor Shōmu visited Sugawara-dera and prayed before the temple’s main statue, from which a mysterious light emanated. Overjoyed, the emperor declared it to be a “temple of joyful light,” and it became known as “Kikōji.”
Exploring the Grounds
As you enter the temple grounds, the first thing you will see is the Main Hall (Important Cultural Property, built during the Muromachi period).
In fact, when constructing Tōdai-ji, Gyōki used the design of this temple’s Main Hall as a reference, which is why it is also known as the “Prototype Great Buddha Hall.” The original Main Hall was unfortunately destroyed by fire in the 8th year of Meiō (1499). Later, during the Muromachi period, it was rebuilt in its original location in the 13th year of Tenmon (1544).
Inside the Main Hall, you will find the principal statue, Amida Nyorai (Important Cultural Property, Heian period), along with other enshrined figures. Although the gold leaf has worn off and the statues are not in pristine condition, this only adds to the sense of history, allowing you to truly feel the weight of time as you observe them.
Another highlight of the temple is the Gyōki Hall, where the statue of Gyōki Bosatsu (the seated figure of Gyōki, the Bodhisattva) is enshrined.
Gyōki, based at Kikōji Temple, played a key role in the construction of the Great Buddha at Tōdai-ji. He traveled across the country, establishing kokubunji (provincial temples) in various regions. In addition, he built ponds, embankments, canals, and bridges, while also engaging in religious outreach and social welfare activities. As a result, he earned the admiration of the people, who referred to him as a “Bodhisattva” and followed him in faith.
Moreover, in the 17th year of Tenpyo (745), Gyōki was appointed the first Daisōjyō (Chief Priest) in Japan by Emperor Shōmu, solidifying his status as one of the most prominent high monks of the Nara period.
Looking at the statue of Gyōki, one can sense that he was a person with strong convictions. I made a vow to myself, promising to become someone who, like him, can earn the respect of many people, and then I left the temple.
Conclusion
Kikōji may be a small temple, but I learned that it has deep connections with renowned monks such as Gyōki and Eison.
Additionally, with the Amida Nyorai statue from the Heian period enshrined here, there were many interesting things to see, and I’m glad I decided to visit. As someone who is passionate about photography, I was especially happy that taking pictures was allowed.
Moreover, from mid-June to early August, around 80 varieties of lotus flowers, displayed in about 250 pots, decorate the temple grounds. If you visit during that time, it would be a wonderful opportunity to enjoy the lotus display!
With that, I head towards my final destination of this journey, Saidaiji.
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