Day 3 of our Nara trip – the final day.
Today’s temple tour will follow this route:
JR Nara Station ⇒ Yakushi-ji Temple ⇒ Tōshōdai-ji Temple ⇒ Kikō-ji Temple ⇒ Saidai-ji Temple ⇒ Yamato-Saidai-ji Station
Since I’m planning to head to Kyoto Station in the evening to catch the Shinkansen back, we start early despite the cold weather at the end of December. Yakushi-ji opens at 9:00 AM, but I got a bit too excited and ended up arriving at the nearby bus stop around 8:30.
With the strong north wind, it was impossible to wait outside, so I decided to enjoy a cup of coffee at a nearby café right next to the entrance of Yakushi-ji. The bread there looked delicious, but I resisted since I had already eaten a lot at the hotel’s breakfast buffet earlier. Even on a trip, it’s important to avoid spending money too easily.
Now, it’s time to introduce Yakushi-ji Temple.
What is Yakushi-ji?
Yakushi-ji Temple was founded in the 9th year of Emperor Tenmu’s reign (680), with Emperor Tenmu’s initiative. The main statue was consecrated in the 11th year of Empress Jitō’s reign (697), and the construction of the temple buildings was completed during the reign of Emperor Monmu at Asuka-Fujiwara-kyō. Later, with the relocation of the capital to Heijō-kyō in the 3rd year of Wado (710), the temple was moved to the right part of Heijō-kyō in the 2nd year of Yōrō (718).
Yakushi-ji, with its East and West pagodas, boasted one of the most magnificent temple layouts in Japan. However, due to repeated disasters, it gradually declined, and by the early Showa period, only the East Pagoda, which narrowly survived, remained standing. Reconstruction efforts began around 1967 (Showa 42) and, over time, the temple grounds have been restored to their current grand state.
Furthermore, Yakushi-ji was registered as a World Heritage site in December 1998 (Heisei 10) and has since become one of Nara’s representative temples.
Exploring the Grounds
Now, let’s enter the grounds of Yakushi-ji Temple.
The Eastern Hall (Tōindō)
During the Yōrō period, Princess Kibi initiated the construction of the hall to pray for the repose of Emperor Genmei’s soul. The current building was rebuilt in the 8th year of Kōan (1285) and was later altered to face west in the 18th year of Kyōhō (1733). It skillfully retains the architectural style of the Kamakura period and is known as the oldest Zen hall in Japan.
In the Eastern Hall, the statue of Sho-Kanzeon Bosatsu (Holy Kannon Bodhisattva) (National Treasure, Asuka period) is enshrined, among other important objects. By the way, among the various depictions of Kannon, this particular one is called “Sho-Kannon” because it represents the original, unaltered form of the bodhisattva.
Notable features of this statue include the hair that cascades in several strands down to the shoulders, the double-layered necklace, the translucent robes, the delicate and beautiful movements of the fingers resembling flower petals, and the straight posture. These elements strongly reflect the influence of India’s Gupta Dynasty. The beauty of this statue is striking, with a power that seems to captivate the hearts of all who view it.
Additionally, surrounding this statue are the Four Heavenly Kings (Shitenno) (Important Cultural Property, Kamakura period), which are also enshrined in the hall.
The Middle Gate (Chūmon)
As I left the Eastern Hall and continued along the path, I came to the Middle Gate. Here, two fearsome-faced Nio statues stood guard. While it’s unclear exactly when they were created, the fact that they are painted makes me wonder: are they relatively new? Or do their artistic features suggest that they might be from the Nara period, reflecting an older style? These thoughts came to mind as I continued on.
The East Pagoda (National Treasure, Asuka period)
Having circled around the outer areas of Yakushi-ji Temple, I entered the central part. The first thing that catched the eye was the East Pagoda. This is the only building that remains from the original construction. Though it appears to have six stories due to the addition of a layer of eaves on each level, it is actually a three-story pagoda. Its distinctive shape maintains a rhythmic beauty, and it is affectionately referred to as “frozen music.”
At first glance, I too thought, “How many stories does this pagoda have?” But once I was told, I began to feel that it is indeed a three-story pagoda. I also began to think that perhaps the reason Yakushi-ji was so thoroughly restored is because the East Pagoda was still standing. Without it, they might have given up on the reconstruction. There’s no doubt that this pagoda is a key structure when talking about Yakushi-ji.
The West Pagoda
The original building was lost by fire in the first year of Kyōroku (1528). Based on meticulous research of the East Pagoda conducted during the Showa period, the West Pagoda was reconstructed using traditional wooden building techniques. The gentle slope of the roof and the blue-painted lattice windows are features that reflect the style of the original construction.
The West Pagoda does feel relatively new, but it allows us to understand the original design, and the colors are beautiful and impressive. In particular, the lattice windows are stylish and charming.
The Main Hall (Kondō)
The design of the Main Hall, which evokes the pure land of Yakushi Nyorai (Healing Buddha), was known as the “Ryūgū-zukuri” style. However, it was destroyed by fire in the first year of Kyōroku (1528), and a temporary main hall was erected in the 5th year of Keichō (1600). Later, after five years of reconstruction starting in 1971 (Showa 46), the hall was restored to its original form.
Inside the Main Hall, the Yakushi Triad (National Treasure, Asuka period) is enshrined. What particularly caught my attention was the pedestal of Yakushi Nyorai (Healing Buddha). The frame is decorated with grapevine motifs derived from Greece and lotus patterns from Persia. The lower frame features the Four Guardian Spirits, known as the Four Gods, which are mythological beasts from China. This offers a glimpse into the cultural exchange between the East and West at that time.
The Great Lecture Hall (Daikōdō)
In ancient temple complexes, the lecture hall was often larger than the main hall, as many scholar-monks studied Buddhist teachings there. This lecture hall was rebuilt in 2003 (Heisei 15) and is one of the largest reconstructions of a traditional wooden building in history.
Inside, you can find the Miroku Triad (Important Cultural Property, Nara period), the main deity, as well as the Buddha’s Footprints (Important Cultural Property, Nara period) enshrined.
Daikodo, Structure and History
Conclusion
As for the overall atmosphere of the temple grounds, there isn’t much natural scenery, but it gives the impression of being very well-maintained. In terms of Nara, it feels somewhat similar to Kōfuku-ji Temple. Perhaps this is because both temples share the history of being rebuilt after much of their original structures were destroyed by fire!? Another common feature is that both offer a chance to feel history up close through their precious Buddhist statues.
Another characteristic of the temple is how spacious the grounds are. It might have taken about an hour to carefully explore the buildings and statues. This just means there’s a lot to enjoy, so I highly recommend that everyone visit Yakushi-ji.
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